Darning
Darning cloth
In its simplest form, darning consists of anchoring the thread in the fabric on the edge of the hole and carrying it across the gap. It is then anchored on the other side, usually with a running stitch or two. If enough threads are criss-crossed over the hole, the hole will eventually be covered with a mass of thread.
Fine darning, sometimes known as Belgian darning, attempts to make the repair as invisible and neat as possible. Often the hole is cut into a square or darn blends into the fabric.
There are many varieties of fine darning. Simple over-and-under weaving of threads can be replaced by various fancy weaves, such as twills, chevrons, etc., achieved by skipping threads in regular patterns.
Invisible darning is the epitome of this attempt at restoring the fabric to its original integrity. Threads from the original weaving are unravelled from a hem or seam and used to effect the repair. Invisible darning is appropriate for extremely expensive fabrics and items of apparel.
In machine darning, lines of machine running stitch are run back and forth across the hole, then the fabric is rotated and more lines run at right angles. This is a fast way to darn, but it cannot match the effects of fine darning.
Darning tools
Darning egg, early 20th century
There are special tools for darning socks or stockings:
A darning egg is an egg-shaped ovoid of stone, porcelain, wood, or similar hard material, which is inserted into the toe or heel of the sock to hold it in the proper shape and provide a firm foundation for repairs. When the repairs are finished, the darning egg is removed. A shell of the tiger cowry Cypraea tigris, a popular ornament in Europe and elsewhere, was also sometimes used as a ready-made darning egg.
A darning mushroom is a mushroom-shaped tool usually made of wood. The sock is stretched over the curved top of the mushroom, and gathered tightly around the stalk to hold it in place for darning.
A darning gourd is a hollow dried gourd with a pronounced neck. The sock can be stretched over the full end of the gourd and held in place around the neck for darning.
A darning needle is a long, heavy sewing needle with a blunt tip and large eye for drawing decorative threads through the intersections of the ground fabric.
Pattern darning
Pattern darning
Pattern darning is a simple and ancient embroidery technique in which contrasting thread is woven in-and-out of the ground fabric using rows of running stitches which reverse direction at the end of each row. The length of the stitches may be varied to produce geometric designs. Traditional embroidery using pattern darning is found in Africa, Japan, Northern and Eastern Europe, the Middle East, Mexico and Peru .
Pattern darning is also used as a filling stitch in blackwork embroidery.
References
S.F.A. Caulfield and B.C. Saward, The Dictionary of Needlework, 1885.
Readers Digest Complete Guide to Needlework, 1979, ISBN 0-89577-059-8.
Reader’s Digest Oxford Dictionary p.1001.CS.
External links
Chapter 11arning and Patching from American Dressmaking Step by Step (1917) by Mme. Lydia Trattles Coates
Pattern Darning by Sally Simon at the American Needlepoint Guild (examples and stitching techniques)
Swiss darning as an embellishment technique
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Embroidery
Styles
Assisi Bargello Berlin work Blackwork Broderie Anglaise Broderie perse Candlewicking Canvas work Counted-thread Crewel Cross-stitch Cutwork Darning Drawn thread work Free embroidery Goldwork Hardanger Machine Needlepoint Quillwork Smocking Sprang Stumpwork Surface Suzani Trianglepoint Whitework
Stitches
Backstitch Blanket Brick Buttonhole Chain stitch Couching and laid work Cross stitches Embroidery stitch Featherstitch Holbein Parisian Peyote Running Satin stitch Sashiko Shisha Straight stitch Tent stitch
Tools
and materials
Aida cloth Embroidery hoop Embroidery thread Evenweave Perforated paper Plainweave Plastic canvas Sampler Slip Yarn
Regional
and historical
Art needlework Bunka shishu Brazilian Chikan Chinese English Indian Jacobean Kaitag Kantha Kasuti Korean Mountmellick Persian Opus Anglicanum Suzhou Ukrainian Vietnamese Zardozi
Embroideries
Apocalypse Tapestry Bayeux Tapestry Bradford carpet Hastings Embroidery Hestia tapestry Margaret Laton’s jacket New World Tapestry Overlord embroidery Quaker Tapestry
Designers
and embroiderers
Leon Conrad Kaffe Fassett Juanita Growing Thunder Fogarty Marilyn Leavitt-Imblum Ann Macbeth May Morris Charles Germain de Saint Aubin Mary Elizabeth Turner Teresa Wentzler Erica Wilson Lily Yeats
Organizations
and museums
Embroiderers’ Guild (UK) Embroiderer’s Guild of America Embroidery Software Protection Coalition Royal School of Needlework Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum Han Sang Soo Embroidery Museum
Related
Applique Crochet Knitting Lace Needlework Quilting
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Sewing
Techniques
Basting Cut Darning Dressmaker Embellishment Gather Heirloom sewing Pleat Ruffle Style line Tailor Gore Gusset Godet
Stitches
Backstitch Blanket Buttonhole Chain stitch Cross-stitch Embroidery stitch Lockstitch Overlock Running Sashiko Tack Zigzag
Seams
Bound Hong Kong Inseam Seam allowance Seam types
Notions
Bias tape Interfacing Passementerie Pattern Simplicity Trim Twill tape
Closures
Button Buttonhole Frog Hook-and-eye Shank Snap Velcro Zipper
Materials
Bias Yarn/Thread Selvage Textiles/Fabric
Tools
Bobbin Pin Pincushion Pinking shears Scissors Seam ripper Sewing needle Stitching awl Tape measure Thimble Tracing paper Tracing wheel Upholstery needle
Sewing machines
Bernina Brother Industries Feed dogs Pfaff Sewing machine Singer Tapemaster
Categories: Sewing | Embroidery | Sewing stitches | Embroidery stitches
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