The Four C’s – Cut

Buying diamonds is no mean feat – there are so many things to consider that it can be completely baffling, not to mention overwhelming! Here we demystify one of the “Four C’s” – Cut.

What Does it Mean?

The “cut” of a diamond is often one of the most important things to consider. Not only does it refer to the shape and proportion of the stone, but also the angles and finish of the diamond which leads to its “brilliance” (ability to reflect light and sparkle).

Why is it so Important?

The cut of a diamond is the most technical element of the “four C’s” and is based around precise mathematical equations. These calculations allow the diamond optimum ability to disperse light and ultimately gain the all important “bling” factor that so many people love. In some cases, diamond cutters will not adhere to these all important mathematical equations so that they may retain more weight in the diamond. It is important to avoid diamonds that stray from “excellent” proportions as it will reduce the gem’s brilliance. The brilliance of the stone can be affected if the stone has been too deeply cut, or alternatively, has a shallow cut.

A “deep cut” means that the cone shaped part of the diamond is too long and the depth of the diamond has been retained so it weighs more. On the flip side, if the stone has been given a “shallow cut”, it means that there was minimal depth to the diamond, but there was room to make up for the weight because the table (top of the diamond) was quite wide.

Unfortunately, only about 5% of all diamonds are cut to “ideal” proportions. While there is no specific set of universal standards, there is a spectrum of tolerances which all of the major internationally recognised bodies use when cutting diamonds.

The History of the Cut

In 1919, the mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky created the brilliant cut, which is still being used today. This particular design allows for optimum brilliance and light dispersion in a diamond, which is probably why it is still so popular. When using this design, the cutter will often have to forgo some of the weight of the stone to produce a more beautiful looking diamond.

Style Alters Perceived Sparkle

When researching diamonds, always remember that some cuts will always offer more brilliance and light dispersion. For example; if you are comparing an Asscher cut and Round Brilliant cut diamond of the same colour and clarity grading side-by-side, the Round Brilliant cut diamond will always sparkle more than the Asscher cut. This is simply because the Round Brilliant cut diamond has more ability to catch and disperse light compared to that of the Asscher.

Simon Middleton is part of the Diamond Exchange team who provide advice on buying engagement rings, how to choose diamonds and diamond rings.

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